• Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur Homestay & Waterfall Chasing in Chikmagalur

If someone tells me there is an amazing waterfall to hike to that I’ve just got to see in India… I’m not doing it! Waterfalls in India in November are cold and full of leeches. They sure are gorgeous though…

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur Homestay in Chikmagalur

After a month of traveling with goMowgli, this was the last place we stayed. It was sad to be coming to an end, and we spent the morning driving from our homestay near Jog Falls to our little homestay in Mallandur (more of a guesthouse I thought) and had a big ass lunch of the usual: rice, chapatti, veg curries, sides, then headed off to the local waterfall.

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur in ChikmagalurIt’s a guarantee here that you won’t see any other travelers. The homestay had no other guests and the waterfall is quite a secret that only locals know about (and now you too). It’s about an hour to go there from the guesthouse and the ride back is better to to do before dark.

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

After the trek at Thadiyandamol 3 weeks ago, I was still scratching at my leech bites. They take ages to heal and itch like crazy. The local guide from the homestay said there weren’t leeches here and we could wear swimsuits and swim. There were totally a lot of leeches. I’ll let you see all the photos and see if it was worth it. FYI, just assume there are leeches at all places you go to with water while in Karnataka!

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

Mallandur in ChikmagalurIt was very cold so I didn’t actually swim, and the hike was longer than we expected because it was mossy, slippery and hard to walk on the rocks. Wear sturdy sandals or tennis shoes (but check for leeches in your shoes).  Because the ride back is an hour, if you’re all wet you’re gonna hate it! We luckily didn’t submerge ourselves.

The homestay luckily had hot water and started a bonfire for us where they brought out tea and onion and pepper bajji while we waited for dinner. I guess I am not making this sound as cool as it would be. We had gotten a late start in the AM and hit traffic, so arrived late which is why it got dark and cold. Had that not happened, it would have been really nice in the hot sun.

Mallandur in Chikmagalur

The homestay luckily had hot water and started a bonfire for us where they brought out tea and onion and pepper bajji while we waited for dinner.

The homestay luckily had hot water and started a bonfire for us where they brought out tea and onion and pepper bajji while we waited for dinner.As you can see, the room is pretty basic. It did get cold at night (this was in November). My bathroom had a leaky toilet as well. The food was great though and the owner was very nice. It peak season times, the prices in this whole area are high and a lot of homestays don’t have a nice quality. Although this wasn’t my favorite, it was still a cozy safe place to sleep.

Practical information:

  • This homestay was quite pricey at 1400 per person food, whether you shared a room or not. I think it was also more of a guesthouse. The general consensus was that it was priced too high.
  • The goMowgli vehicle can’t make it to the waterfall due to rough roads, so the jeep from the homestay was an additional fee. We did voice the concern that it was overpriced, so hopefully they will include the jeep ride from now on.
  • If you’re coming here with goMowgli, this is part of the Chikkamagalur loop.


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About the Author:

Rachel Jones left a career in nursing and lived on the beaches of Goa, India for the five years. Now she lives in Mexico where she gives advice on the 40+ countries she’s visited in the last 10 years. She’s the author of two India travel e-books: Guide to India and Insider’s Guide to Goa. Her blog, Werkenntwen, like its name, is a contradiction combining off-beat adventurous places with glamorous and bespoke travel. Werkenntwen has been featured in ELLE, Marie Claire, Grazia, and Cosmopolitan magazines. She’s a writer for Bravo TV.


  1. Elise March 18, 2015 at 2:47 am - Reply

    The leeche part sounds not fun at all, but the photos look beautiful! The food looks great too! I have always wanted to travel a little off the grid in India, and be brave and stay on a homestay type of place.

    Lovely post!


  2. De'Jav March 18, 2015 at 4:46 am - Reply

    The pics look great damn about those leeches though doesn’t sounds like fun.

  3. Rishi March 18, 2015 at 7:13 am - Reply

    Namaste Rachel

    I was going though your stories in India and i must say lovely capture and beautifully narrated the insights .

    Well i want to invite you for a festival in The North Eastern State of India for a festival which is known as the 18deegreesfestival which is scheduled in the month of September ‘2015 .
    kindly visit the website for more details which says about the last year .

    You may send in any suggestions or feel free to discuss the invitation
    reach me @[email protected]
    fb page:

    Warm Regards

  4. Justine March 18, 2015 at 11:28 am - Reply

    That hike and waterfall both look beautiful but the thought of leeches totally freaks me out! I had no idea that the bites take so long to heal and get so itchy. That sounds awful!

    • Rachel Jones March 19, 2015 at 7:20 pm - Reply

      Yeah I didn’t know either, they took so long and were really irritating.

  5. Deepti October 4, 2015 at 1:50 pm - Reply

    Hi Rachel, I am doing a Karnataka trip and your posts have helped me a lot in planning the itinerary. A big fan of your blog. Unfortunately, I am not able to travel with gomowgli as the passes I need have been discontinued :-(
    Will you be able to provide me the name or of the Mallandur homestay. I am not able to find it online.

    Thanks a ton,

    • Rachel Jones October 4, 2015 at 6:15 pm - Reply

      would email gomowgli as they will have all the info & also do bespoke tours so may still be able to take you on the ones you want. [email protected]

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